Where would we be without our trusty gardening tools? But to get the best from them we need to show them a little tender loving care. Watch our video or read the article below to find out how to keep your tools as good as new…. Any tools coming into contact with the ground should always be cleaned off before storing. Mud can usually be blasted off with a jet of water, but if dirt has hardened you may need to soak metal parts first before wiping clean with an old rag.
Digging tools and other ground-contact tools such as hoes benefit from an occasional coating of oil, which helps to protect the blades or tines from moisture and rusting.
Start by passing a wire brush over the tool to remove any ingrained dirt, build-up of sap, and any rust spots. Work both the front and back of the blade then wipe clean with a rag. Tip: When removing the blade, lift the mower so the air filter is facing up to prevent gas from dripping into the filter.
Mark the blade with spray paint or a piece of tape before removing it so you'll know which way to reinstall it. Also be sure to remove the spark plug wire and tape it back so the engine doesn't accidentally start if you happen to turn the blade when removing it. Clamp the machete in a vice and run the mill file over the blade, pushing the file away from your body and down the length of the blade.
It won't be perfectly sharp until you finish one side, then file the opposite side although some machetes are only sharpened on one side, so examine your blade edge to determine if it's beveled on one or both sides. It's a good idea to avoid sharpening within a few inches of the handle. This keeps the blade stronger. Plus, you don't want that area to be super sharp just in case your hand slips off the handle onto the blade.
Sharp shears give you fast, clean cuts instead of chewing on the branch or vine. It's better for the plant and requires less effort from you. And getting a sharp edge takes only a few minutes.
Place the shears in a vice and run the file along the edge. Hold the file flat against the beveled edge. Start at the innermost part of the blade and push the file away from you, following the curve of the blade. You don't need to apply a lot of pressure to see a fresh edge emerge in the steel.
Note: Only sharpen the blade with the bevel. The other blade on pruning shears is not for cutting and should not be sharpened. Same story here. Using a round or half-round smooth file, file the edge of the curve perfectly flat. Again, move the file in only one direction and avoid short, jerky strokes. Loosen the pivot bolt and separate the blades. Don't forget to clean off any rust or dirtf. Place cutting blade in the bench vise or clamp.
Make sure the blade is positioned so that you can put the proper bevel on the cutting edge, and follow the steps above. Find the appropriate angle for the bevel. Remember, it is best to follow the factory bevel that was on the blade initially. Now, place the blunt blade in the bench vise.
Make sure the blade is positioned so you can work on the inside of the curve. When this is done, you can turn the mower over and unscrew the blade. When removing the blade, pay attention to which side is up and which side is down. A common mistake is to put the blade back the wrong way around after sharpening — it might help to mark the blade with a marker pen so you know which way up it goes when you put it back. Once the blade is removed, give it a good clean with sandpaper then fix it into a vise.
Alternatively, you can sharpen the blade using a bench grinder. If you use a bench grinder, make sure you wear eye protection and a mask to stop yourself breathing in the dust. Axes or hatchets need sharp blades to be useful. They are usually made of tough metals, and you will need strong sharpening tools to do a good job.
To sharpen a small hatchet, you may be able to do a decent job just with a file. Simply hold the hatchet in your hand and file both sides of the blade until you create a sharp cutting edge. If you have a larger hatchet or axe, it may be preferable to fix it in a clamp or vise.
This will make it easier to sharpen. Again, use a file to sharpen both edges of the blade until you achieve the desired result. If you need a very sharp blade or you have a larger axe that needs sharpening, it might be better to resort to a bench grinder. In this case, follow the same procedure as described above for the lawnmower blades. Move the blade back and forth over the grinding wheel — the only difference is, unlike with lawnmower blades, you need to sharpen both sides of the cutting edge.
Again, as with sharpening lawnmower blades with a bench grinder, make sure you wear appropriate protection over your mouth and eyes. However, curved shovels and edging tools are used to cut through tough soils and roots and do need a sharp edge. With use, they quickly become blunt, so you will need to restore the edge periodically. If the edge has been nicked or is otherwise damaged, you may need to do some more significant work on it, in which case, a bench grinder might be a better option.
If you are only planning to file the edge of a shovel, the first step is to give it a good clean. Use high-grit sandpaper to remove dirt, grime, and rust, especially on the edge of the tool. Once the edge is clean and shiny, you can just use the file to work on it until you have created a sharpened edge. To repair a shovel or edging tool that has been nicked, use a bench grinder as described above.
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